The Return of Quiet Tailoring

For a few seasons, tailoring shouted — exaggerated shoulders, logos on lapels, colour for colour's sake. This autumn the mood has turned. The best suits on the runways in Paris and Milan were the ones you would only notice on a second look.

The shift is about proportion rather than ornament. A trouser with a higher rise and a deeper pleat. A blazer that is nipped, not strangled, at the waist. Fabrics with a dry hand — gabardine, tropical wool — that hold a crease all day.

Start with one piece you will wear three times a week. For most of our clients that is a blazer in ecru or noir, worn over a tee on Monday and over silk on Saturday.